We often hear the term ‘Modern British Food’ casually bandied around, but to my mind, I don’t really know what this means. At best, I’d say was traditional British dishes, deconstructed, poncified and served in measly portions – i.e. not terribly appealing. However, with Benares, I think Chef Atul Kochhar has created the very... »
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Wine
The Warrington, W9
Being in the restaurant game, I have the pleasure of meeting some right characters on my travels. And so it was that my trip to The Warrington produced a real gem. Asked on his opinion of the macaroni cheese, our waiter gave the dish the ultimate recommendation by boldly stating something along the lines... »
The Kensington Wine Rooms, W8
A serious wine list has become a pre-requisite for any restaurant or bar with the slightest aspirations of achieving credibility. The starting point seems to around 40 varietals, but it’s not uncommon to see restaurants with wine lists which look more like an encyclopaedia. The problem is that you also need an encyclopaedic knowledge... »
Indian Zing, W6
Whilst the Indian restaurants of central London have moved on leaps and bounds in terms of quality and innovation, most local places are still putting out the same menus that established the industry 30-odd years ago. So when a restaurant such as Indian Zing comes along with the promise of an interesting menu without... »
Comptoir Libanaise, W1 & W12
You’re on your way home from a long day of work or shopping in the city and craving a great meal. Your conscience says it’s got to be pretty healthy, whilst your grumbly belly and tired body demand something quick and calm surroundings, all without breaking the bank. Sounds difficult, but it’s not entirely... »
Del’Aziz, various locations
You’re too old for the ‘let’s dress in ridiculous clothes and go out in Shoreditch’ scene, you don’t fit in with the young families in the ‘new & improved, ultra-sophisticated’ Clapham and you find Islington just too hectic. So where do you go out now? According to the publicity people, the new place for... »
Kanteen, W14
One of life’s great frustrations is that the nicer something tastes the unhealthier it’s likely to be. Diets gurus can preach until the cows come home about how tasty fresh fruit, boiled chicken and steamed vegetables are but there really is no substitute for a good knob of butter or a creamy sauce to... »
Azou, W6
Microwaves, food processors, bread-makers, gas barbeques - you name it and there’s probably a gadget or appliance that makes cooking easier and quicker for you. The problem is that most of these items also take away a crucial level of flavour and satisfaction that comes only with real love, time and hands-on attention. Visiting... »
Babylon, W8
If there was ever a venue that was perfectly suited to the glitz and glamour of Kensington then surely it’s got to be Kensington Roof Gardens. Owned by uber-rich Richard Branson, set six storeys above the reach of the working class, and full of the crème of London’s beautiful people, it pretty much epitomises... »
The Meat & Wine Co, W12
As you’d expect, I need to have a pretty open palette to be a restaurant reviewer and unless I am in a very specific mood, I always ask the waiter for their recommendation. Unfortunately, I’ve come to find that too many waiters have absolutely no knowledge of the food they are serving, making their... »
El Pirata Detapas, W2
If variety is the spice of life, than surely eating Spanish-style is the route to epicurean bliss. London would undoubtedly be a happier place if we were allowed 2 hour lunch breaks with our loved ones to leisurely graze on half a dozen delightful little dishes. A spot of Mediterranean sun wouldn’t go a... »
