Look at any decent pub food menu and you will see a clear trend towards great British classics, with sausage rolls, Scotch eggs and roast dinners taking pride of place. It appears that Michael Kittos and Tony Wolfe didn’t receive the memo, however, seeing as they have recently embarked on their third Mediterranean inspired boozer with the opening of The Fat of the Land.
Set against a smart backdrop of oak, brick and oversized black lamps, the pub is a draw for both drinkers and diners who fancy a spot of tapas with their drink. From the polished concrete-topped bar in bustling pub at street-level to the light and airy dining room upstairs, The Fat of the Land combines the lively atmosphere of a traditional pub with the intimacy of a familiar neighbourhood restaurant.
Head chef Alfonso Lillo Fas – a former finalist in the Spanish version of Professional Masterchef and previously a sous chef at Mandarin Oriental – has been charged with creating the Catalonian cuisine served in the main restaurant. The format and style of food is refreshingly conventional, with a good selection of traditional tapas and larger dishes. Execution of the cooking is a little patchy, with Pork belly coming up a little dry and a giant roast Guinea fowl lacking in seasoning or flavour. On the flipside, a plate of Pata negra melted in the mouth as it should and was generous of portion, and both the Croquetas and Tortilla were deliciously authentic. However, the pricing is extremely reasonable and it’s all of a standard that makes for a great local drinking and dining spot.
Drinks maintain a distinctly Mediterranean feel too, with a concise and sensibly priced selection of wines from Catalunya and South West France available in carafes and by the glass. Jugs of Sangria are always welcome when we go Spanish, so it’s great to see them on the menu, as well as a few choice sherries and Spanish beers.
Cuisine type: Spanish
Meal for two (excluding drinks): £50
The Fat of the Land
35 New Cavendish Street
London, W1G 9TR
Tel: 0207 487 3030