Fifteen Cornwall, TR8

fifteen 300x225 Fifteen Cornwall, TR8Adding a bit of celebrity pizzazz to Watergate Bay is Fifteen Cornwall, the philanthropic restaurant venture launched by that chef geezer, Jamie Oliver.  Like the other branches of Fifteen, at the heart of it all is a chef training programme with a mission to empower young people who are in need of a second chance.

Taking a prime location directly above the Beach Hut restaurant, Fifteen benefits from the same stunning beachside views, albeit in a more stylish setting. The visual spectacle also extends to the view inside the restaurant, with all of the sights and action from the chefs available courtesy of the restaurant-length open kitchen.

The menu provides Jamie Oliver’s signature rustic Italian cooking style using the top quality local ingredients.  As such menus are constantly changing to take advantage of the freshest produce.  Early risers can start their day with breakfast, afternoon customers can have a full-run at the proper menu and there’s a tasting menu only policy for evenings. Dishes include Bruschetta of gooey burrata, char-grilled violet artichokes, wild rocket & Parmigiano Reggiano; Potato gnocchi, braised oxtail ragu, pine nut gremolata; and the obligatory array of fresh local seafood dishes.

Whilst ingredients are undoubtedly of an outstanding quality, with some delicious flavours emerging from the fresh produce, the cooking side of things let the team down a little.  The main problem is that there doesn’t actually seem to be much cooking or innovation going on in the kitchen, with dishes being more of an assembly of ingredients.  Considering this was the most expensive meal of our trip, with the 6 course-tasting menu costing a pricey £58/head, we just didn’t eat anything that particularly wowed us, unlike some of our other meals in Cornwall.

Food: 3/5
Venue: 4/5
Value: 2/5

Cuisine type: Italian
Meal for two (excluding drinks): around £35 at lunch and £58 for dinner
Wine: £5
Cocktails: £7.50

Fifteen Cornwall
On The Beach
Watergate Bay
Tel: +44 (0)1637 861000