Bellamy’s, W1

Bellamys web 201x300 Bellamys, W1Do you remember the last time you visited a London restaurant where you didn’t need sunglasses to help you see through the dazzling décor and a trip to Selfridges to ensure you looked cool enough to be allowed entry?  With many of London’s restaurants seemingly in a power struggle over who can create the glitziest venue, it’s easy to forget that the best restaurants are often those that keep things the most simple.

Bellamy’s provides a fine example of how old-school restaurant values still triumph over superficial modern style.  Tucked away in a Mayfair side road, the inconspicuous entrance leads you into a charming deli area where local suits enjoy a quick lunch at the oyster bar and pick up some high quality groceries.  However, it’s the main restaurant area where the real magic happens.  Comfortable banquet seating, crisp white table cloths, and some of the slickest service this side of Roger Federer on a tennis court, this is traditional French brasserie dining at its best.  It’s no surprise then, that owner Gavin Rankin was previously involved in that quintessential of British institutions, Annabels.

So onto the food and it does absolute justice to the initial impressions of the restaurant.  The extensive menu provides classic French brasserie dishes of the type you could happily chow down pretty much everyday. Starters range from intriguing to classic, including Smoked Eel Mousse, Scrambled eggs with truffles and Rillettes of Duck, as well as plenty of fresh shellfish. Mains take a similar approach, with expertly cooked seasonal dishes, such as Roast Grouse, to beautifully spiced Medallions of Lamb à la Marocaine and a Risotto of Langoustines.  Desserts too are impressive, including an Apple Strudel that features the most delicate and crispest to match the best around.  To top it all off, diners will also appreciate the accessible all-French wine list with its extensive choice of bins from Bordeaux, Burgundy and the Rhone.

Food: 4/5
Venue: 4/5
Value: 3/5

Cuisine type: Traditional French
Dinner for two (excluding drinks): £80
Wine: £7

18-18a Bruton Place
Tel: 0207 491 2727

minilink Bellamys, W1