Entrée, SW11

entree Entrée, SW11For the restaurant world, 2010 will probably be best known for the return of old favourites.  Golden oldies such as Pierre Koffman, Bruno Loubet and Joel Antunes have all opened high profile and critically acclaimed restaurants this year.  Unfortunately, this has also meant that that launches by promising young-upstarts have been largely overshadowed by these big names. 

 

Take Entrée for example.  Having spent many years learning his craft running venues around the world, young owner Jayke Mangion’s first foray into restaurant ownership has seen him employ a young, local team all under 30 years of age.  And what a team they are.  Extremely hard-working, but with the talent to back it up, if this is the future of London’s dining scene then we are in for a treat. 

 

Situated at the top of Battersea Rise, the distinctive site is situated over two floors.  The relaxed dining area offers a stylish grey and gold trimmed interior, interestingly decorated with 100 year old original Parisian journals posing as wallpaper.  Head downstairs and you’ll be met with a cocktail bar in the style of an American speakeasy, with comfortable leather banquette seating and a live pianist on the weekends.  The beautifully executed drinks come courtesy of head bartender, Pasquale Fais, formerly of Lonsdale House and Hoxton Pony, who has put together a short but appealing cocktail list of classics and unique creations.

 

The cooking has been tasked to Milanese Head chef, Omar Palazzolo, whose wealth of experience includes cooking in renowned restaurants such as Le Gavroche and Nobu. So it’s no surprise to find an eclectic European menu with influences from Italy and France – albeit with extensive use of local ingredients. 

 

Excellent starters include Scallop & crab lasagne with chive beurre blanc and Pea Arancini (risotto balls) with avocado, tomato & cress.  However, it’s the mains where the real magic happens.  Denham Estate ‘Saddle Back’ pork belly with chorizo Lyonnaise is one of the finest pork dishes to be found in London, with a perfectly crisp top and delicious, juicy (and not too fatty) meat underneath. Equally impressive is the Haunch of venison with braised cabbage, creamed mash & sloe gin jus.  If you’ve still got room after the generously portioned main meal, enjoyable desserts include Chocolate brownie and Lemon posset.

 

Food: 4/5

Venue: 3/5

Value: 4/5

 

Cuisine type: Modern European

Dinner for two (excluding drinks): £60

Wine: £4

Cocktails: £6

 

Entrée Restaurant & Bar

2 Battersea Rise

SW11 1ED

Tel: 020 7223 5147

www.entreebattersea.co.uk

minilink Entrée, SW11