four o nine, SW9

four o nine four o nine, SW9“Location, location, location!”  Just like when you’re buying a new home, one of the most important factors to consider when opening a restaurant is the ‘where’.  In the eatery packed streets of London, the most innocuous of locational mistakes – such as being on the wrong side of a street or not having sufficient frontage – has lead to the cruel demise of many a quality restaurant.  One of the few exceptions to the rule appears to be four o nine – a restaurant that offers nothing more than a small plaque on the side of an anonymous Clapham street as the only indication of its existence. 

 

Once you have found said secret door, you are invited to walk up a narrow staircase into what one would expect is someone’s home.  Instead, you are met with a New York loft style venue, with relaxed lighting, simple décor and a buzzing atmosphere.  The vibe is no doubt further enlivened by some great cocktails; in particular, the Chocolate Martini we finished our meal with was absolutely legendary, providing what can best be described as a Cadbury’s Flake in a glass. 

 

The menu at four o nine concentrates on simple modern European dishes using top seasonal produce with the occasional interesting twist.  For example, the starter of Pigeon breast with black pudding & lambs tongue lettuce was inspiringly accompanied by raspberries, whilst the Grilled squid was classically served with chickpeas, fennel & lemon.  Mains included Pan fried wild bream with crab, lemon & brown shrimp butter that again had a clever touch of an entire roasted wet garlic bulb; and a simple yet delicious Crisp chicken breast with spring greens, tiger prawns & roast cherry tomatoes.  Desserts keep things fairly conventional with things like Chocolate fondants and Pear and almond tarts.

 

four o nine is one of those places that provides a real feel-good factor about dining with them and its secret location only adds to the satisfaction of finding such a little gem.

 

Food: 3.5/5

Venue: 3.5/5

Value: 3/5

 

Cuisine type: Modern European

Dinner for two (excluding drinks): £70

Wine: £4.50

Cocktails: £7.50

 

four o nine

409 Clapham Road (entrance on Landor Road)

London

SW9 9BT

Tel: 0207 7370722

www.fouronine.co.uk

minilink four o nine, SW9