When you sister restaurant is known to be one of Mumbai’s finest Indian restaurants, the expectations on your London outpost are understandably going to be high. Probably appreciating how difficult it is to emulate such a revered restaurant, the team behind Trishna merely bought a few influences of their Indian outpost to London.
As is often the case with the best Indian restaurants in England and India, the original is a humble back street joint which has become widely recognised as the best seafood restaurant in Mumbai. The younger British sibling takes a similar, albeit slightly more upmarket approach that its posh Marylebone location demands. The venue bucks the trend for maximum bling and colour overload that most modern Indian restaurants favour, instead keeping things refreshingly simple with exposed brickwork walls and chunky wooden furniture – not dissimilar to many smart gastropubs.
The menu also reflects the Mumbai original. Head chef Ravi Deulkar, previously of Michelin starred Rasoi Vineet Bhatia, has put together a menu inspired by the fishing villages of India, albeit with a contemporary twist. Traditional curries are conspicuous by their absence, with Indian grills and lighter ‘tawa’ style curries making up the majority of the menu. Drinks options are also worth noting. Cocktails are well made, whilst beer and wine matching choices are provided with every dish.
So onto the food and it’s the tasting menu that really stands out. At £35 for 7 courses plus a host of sides, it contains their most appealing dishes and represents great value. The evening gets off to a spicy start with some simple carom seed coated Koliwada Shrimp. Lamb chops with ginger & Kashmiri chilli and Chargrilled Wild Tiger Prawns with mustard & dill demonstrate outstanding grilling skills as well as an intricate understanding of spices. Similarly delicious is the Hariyali Bream delicately marinated in mint & coriander, whilst the outstanding dish is Mussels in Coconut & turmeric milk – quite possibly the best mussels dish in London and thoughtfully served with some garlic naans to mop up all of the beautiful sauce. Dorset Brown Crab is perfectly seasoned with pepper & garlic and provides another dish to admire.
So mostly good, but I do need to mention some of the bad, including a couple of disappointingly dull dishes of Lamb Curry and creamed Spinach with dill; it’s almost unbelievable that these dishes came out of the same kitchen that created the earlier masterpieces. As with most Indian restaurants, desserts aren’t worth mentioning so I’ll happily overlook them.
Value: 4/5 (for the tasting menu, otherwise 3/5)
Cuisine type: Indian
Dinner for two (excluding drinks): £70
15 -17 Blandford Street
London, W1U 3DG
Tel: 0207 935 5624