Trinity, SW4

Apparently, if you put all the gastro-pubs in Clapham side by side, the chain would be long enough to circumnavigate the earth 3 times over.  OK, so that’s a total lie, but there sure are lot of them.  But what do the young couples of Clapham do when they’ve managed to find a sitter for their first born and fancy a bit of ‘gastro’ without the ‘pub’?  Trinity would be a great start.

 

Opened in November 2006, Trinity see’s the super talented Adam Byatt returning to Clapham, the area that saw his rise to critical acclaim and public success with his first restaurant, Thyme. The venue itself is aimed squarely at providing the locals with somewhere a little more sophisticated than über-relaxed/funky venues that neighbour it.  However, as we were soon to find out, its understated intentions bellied Trinity’s credentials as a great destination restaurant.  The fact that the restaurant was packed on a Tuesday night suggested that we weren’t the only one to think this!

 

The menu at Trinity is governed by the watchwords of seasonality, traceability and sophisticated simplicity. The Modern European menu cooking reflects Byatt’s training in some of London’s top restaurants (including Claridges and The Square), with touches of fine dining sitting alongside traditional British dishes.  We opted for the 5 course tasting menu and were truly impressed by the varied skills that were so successfully on show. 

 

Pumpkin soup with poached quail egg & buttered mousseron mushrooms was an absolute masterpiece.  The sweet soup had a thick foam-like consistency, which was stunningly complemented by the richness of the egg and the earthy mushroom flavours – a true dessert island dish if ever I’ve had one.  Scallop ceviche was overwhelmed its Clementine marinade, by things got back on track with the remarkably simple but flavoursome Roast monk with a salad of the sweetest vine tomatoes, capers, olives & basil.  Fillet of venison with creamed celeriac & demi-sec figs was also beautifully cooked dish, whilst delicious dessert of Valrhona chocolate hot pot was almost soufflé in texture and was well accompanied by salt caramel ice cream.  Accompanying wines were also well chosen and for an additional £30 on top of the £40 tasting menu, are a worthwhile option should budget allow. 

 

Food: 4.5/5

Venue: 4/5

Value: 3/5

 

Cuisine type: Modern European

Dinner for two (excluding drinks): £80

Wine: £5.50

 

Trinity

4 The Polygon

Clapham

London, SW4 0JG

www.trinityrestaurant.co.uk