Being in the restaurant game, I have the pleasure of meeting some right characters on my travels. And so it was that my trip to The Warrington produced a real gem. Asked on his opinion of the macaroni cheese, our waiter gave the dish the ultimate recommendation by boldly stating something along the lines of:
“It’s delicious. In fact, I tried the macaroni cheese from Tesco last week and this is much nicer.”
High praise indeed. In fact considering the knocks that the Warrington’s owner, Gordon Ramsay, has been taking of late, it’s great to see that his team haven’t lost their sense of humour!
So onto the venue and before you think this is going to turn into yet another critique of old Gordon, it’s not, as The Warrington was actually quite good. The immense property is an archetypal British pub with Art Nouveau friezes, marble pillars and a few other elaborate touches to give it an upper-middle class feel. Make no mistake though, for the downstairs bar retains a traditional pub feel with a hearty pie & mash menu as well as a good range of British ales, beers and cider.
Our evening was to be spent in the plusher first floor restaurant where the serious eating happens and it was a real meal of contrasts. A classic combination of Seared scallops with cauliflower puree & Madeira sauce was stunningly executed, leading to some serious food envy by Ms Pancake as she sulked over her disappointingly thin & bland Potato & leek soup. Mains of Venison saddle Wellington was another outstanding dish, with perfectly pink meat cosseted by a rich pastry and accompanied by a well judged spiced berry sauce. Conversely, Ms Pancake ordered another dud, with her Rump steak with braised oxtail & buttered root vegetables not really delivering the hearty flavours that the dish promised. Oh, and that side order of Egg & bacon macaroni cheese I mentioned earlier was rather good too, although having not tried the Tesco version, I can’t confirm if it actually does taste better!
Our shared dessert of Banana, rum & toffee Tarte Tatin (which I chose as Ms Pancake couldn’t bear to risk choosing another disappointing dish!) was another highlight. Thin slices of caramelised banana sat on top of feather light yet super rich pastry, accompanied by a subtle ginger ice cream, to create a truly historic pudding.
With starters at around £7 and mains around £16.50, prices are pretty reasonable. However, they also have an attractive set price menu of 2 courses for £18 or 3 for £22 which is worth a look.
Cuisine type: British
Dinner for two (excluding drinks): £60
93 Warrington Crescent
London W9 1EH
Tel: 020 7592 7960