London’s Japanese restaurants have become the cuisine of choice for the modern day celebrity. It’s a game of numbers really – you only need to be seen ‘falling out’ of Nobu enough times to become the next idol for Britain’s mindless teens and aspiring chavs. But where does one go for a proper upmarket Japanese experience without risking your retinas being burned by the flash of paparazzi cameras? Sumosan, somewhat ironically located in the heart of Mayfair, is a good start.
In keeping with its understated profile, the venue itself is a fairly underwhelming affair, with beige and grey being the predominant colours in what is quite a clinical and functional looking dining room. They also have a bar downstairs where one can nibble on sushi and sip on cocktails in a debonair fashion.
However, since opening in 2002, Sumosan has gained a strong reputation for providing great quality Japanese cuisine for a discerning clientele. Quite impressively, it also appears that Sumosan’s reputation has travelled far and wide; most tellingly amongst the eclectic bunch of diners was a well travelled Parisian on the table next to us who thought Sumosan served some of best Japanese food he had tasted anywhere.
The long and varied menu has a good blend of decadent, interesting and classic dishes with a strong seafood bias. We decided to work our way through some of the more popular dishes and weren’t disappointed. Tempura rock shrimp were coated in the lightest batter, accompanied by delicious wasabi mayo; Lamb chops furikake were superbly cooked and coated in an interesting rub of sesame seeds, dried fish and seaweed; and even the Fried rice with prawns was tastier than any side dish had any right to be. Additionally, the unashamedly indulgent Tuna & truffle rolls and the most delicately cooked Black cod with miso were worth the trip on their own.
Cuisine type: Japanese
Dinner for two (excluding drinks): anywhere between £30-£50/head
26 Albemarle St
Tel: 020 74955999