If you’re looking for quintessentially British food at a typical British railway station you’ll most likely have to negotiate the multitudes of burgers and baguettes, pizzas and paninis and settle for a humble Cornish pasty. The St Pancras Grand aims to rise above such meagre fare whilst providing an atmosphere associated with travel from a bygone era, when service was attentive and the trains ran on time.
Few restaurants can use the word “Grand” with credibility but the painstaking refurbishment at the St Pancras location has restored the place to the epitome of grandeur. The Grand has high ceilings reaching up to the Dutch gold leaf roof with glowing spheres of light creating a rich and warm feeling.
Designing the food is the responsibility of Executive Chef Billy Reid, a Lancashire lad who’s CV includes The Ritz and the Belvedere. The menu categories listed like the index of a recipe book. Oysters, shellfish, smoked & potted seafood, caviar, soups & salads, cold meat counter, fish, meat, vegetarian, side dishes, puddings & cheese – it was all there and you’d have to be seriously fussy to not find something you like.
We began with half a dozen oysters and Champagne at their dangerously addictive Oyster Bar… followed by another half a dozen oysters! We followed by sharing a superbly seasoned and totally delicious Dressed crab. My main course of Venison with spinach & woodland mushrooms was wonderfully deep and earthy in flavour, whilst the meat in Alex Vee’s Lamb rump with rosemary jus was pink, succulent and perfectly balanced with the jus.
Desserts scored equally highly. My Plum & almond tart was more cake-like in texture but seriously good, whilst Alex Vee also enjoyed his crème-brulee like Lemon curd with shortbread. A special mention also needs to be made to their resident wine expert, Bertrand Lienafa, who perfectly matched our meal with a number of wines from their superb value list, including a stunning Coteaux du Layon dessert wine.
Whether fully-fed French visitors heading home on the Eurostar will put this new take on essential British cuisine on the same platform as their Gallic equivalent remains to be seen, but let’s just say it’s heading in the right direction!
Cuisine type – British
Dinner for 2 (ex. drinks) – £70
Wine – £6
St. Pancras Grand
St Pancras International
020 7870 9900